Byblos

We are bussed from Beirut to Byblos at rush hour, which takes hours - no-one knows quite how long because most have fallen asleep after the first day’s cycling. I bond with a Syrian girl who teaches me Egyptian, and so I end up sitting at a table of Syrians and Meoh, the only Japanese girl on FtW (she is small and sweet with a honking laugh which makes everyone else laugh, but under this is the mechanic who organisers Japanese cycling tours in Africa). We are in Edde Sands – a luxury health resort – and there is an luxury buffet to match. But first we have welcomes from the sponsor: Hizb as-Salaam (the Peace Party) of Lebanon.

The leader gives a rather different account of the situation we are supposed to be reporting back home. He begins with the usuals: Lebanese love life, and peace, and the middle east is a place of beauty and hospitality. He moves onto women: the very first time that anyone has touched on this subject, and talks about how, as women, we have something different to offer the peace process. There's a bit of confusion (for me, anyway) with his, "Masculine spouses are as good as feminine spouses".

But he soon warms up, and moves on to more controversial topics. “There are many powers preventing peace in the Middle East. But the most important is…” what did I expect? Israel, probably. His answer “Syria”. The girls on the table respond with humour and heckling; there is nothing that they haven’t heard before. “If Syria is not prepared to be in the 21st century, Syria will suffer but Lebanon will suffer too”.

The Syrians are getting het up. He moves onto Iran, predicting a war by November. The Iranian girls are getting upset. There is unease all around, but Mette and Jutta are cheering him on. “It’s so great to hear some criticism of something that isn’t Israel” says Mette. “And it’s true, Syria is supporting unrest in Lebanon”.

Hussam from the PYO comes to see the Syrians to apologise. "You know, we didn't know what he was going to say. He is hosting the dinner, you know? We cannot tell him what to say." What are we doing, just supporting anyone who will buy us food or pay for our hotel?

There are complaints about the speech, and after the sumptuous dinner (with wine) Detta stands up to smooth feathers. “We may have different opinions, but we are all entitled to them” she says. This would have been one of a myriad of issues that would have been great to discuss at workshops, thereby increasing understanding and not feeding misinformation and rumour.