Thursday 8 May 2008

Is this Palestine?

The second day in Syria: I cycled! I was standing with the Danes, and as people were cycling off Jutta’s bike was left – “she’s on the tandem” said doctor Mette, “just get on!”. I slapped on the suncream and followed the women.

We’re heading for the Golan Heights, and I realise what I’ve been missing. It’s a wonderful way to travel through a country, especially alongside so many women.

At one point, a sweet Polish girl cycles alongside. “I’m sorry to be so ignorant” she said, “but can I ask you some questions?”. I feel so sorry that people who came to learn feel ashamed to ask questions. “Is this Palestine?” No, I say, feeling alarmed that others don’t have any comprehension of where we are and what we’re doing either. I explain that we’re in Syria, and Israel is occupying the Golan Heights, and I point to the Israeli settlements, and the UN patrols.

So she asks: “What’s it got to do with Palestine?”

Good question. Detta only speaks of Palestine: she has said explicitly this is the only reason we’re here, despite the multiple aims on the FtW website including supporting women's rights, which is why I'm here. So what has it got to do with Palestine? It’s the same old rhetoric: Israel bad: therefore anyone fighting Israel is to be supported. Further information and discussion is not required.

I carry on talking to the Pole. She tells me the reason for the land being so hummocky, based on her own knowledge. “It is like the land at the end of my garden, in our orchard. Our land was the frontline in the second world war: once when my father was digging in the orchard, when he was a child, he actually found a body. The bombs and grenades left their mark on the land, just as you can see here: it is all, what do you say, wavy?”

Others have contributions from their own different backgrounds, most notably the Irish. But these conversations are haphazard; taking place on buses or bikes or while eating - all interesting and stimulating but we are all begging for group workshops to share and develop the ideas.

But nothing doing.

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